Inverter Battery Issue, having trouble with batteries discharging rapidly

Power Inverter Working Principle

Inverters, in their most basic form, operate similar to battery chargers in reverse: they take 12vDC power from a battery and run it through modern circuitry to change it into 120vAC current.

Whether your power inverter needs to be wired to your car battery depends on the model of the inverter and what you intend to run with it. For electrical loads up to 200 watts, the power-inverter can be plugged into the car’s cigarette lighter. This allows you to power laptop computers, small power tools, most small appliances, and even a small (13") TV directly through the cigarette lighter. If you want to power larger equipment, or if you want to run more than one item at a time, a direct connection to your car battery is necessary. Generally, if you intend to power loads of more than 200 watts, your inverter should be direct-wired to the battery to ensure safe operation.

To find how long your battery’s charge will last with any given inverter, use this formula:

Take the wattage being used (400W) divided by the battery voltage (12 Volts) to see how many amps are being drawn from the inverter: 400 Watts/12 Volts = 33.33 Amps.  Inverters only convert power at around 90% efficiency, so that means the inverter is really drawing around 37 amps (33.33 Amps / .90 = 37 Amps).  A typical car battery has a reserve capacity of about 80 minutes (80 minutes @ 25 Amps). So if you are drawing 37 Amps with the 400W inverter it will completely discharge the battery in 54 minutes ((80 minutes * 25 Amps) / 37 amps = 54 minutes).

A few types of alarms and their causes:

Low or no output voltage from the inverter

1. Poor contact at terminals. Unhook and re-hook the 12-volt connections, and try again.
2. Using incorrect type of voltmeter to test output voltage. Use a true RMS reading meter.

Blowing up of inverter fuse

Your power inverter is fitted with 25-amp spade type fuses, which should not have to be replaced under normal operating circumstances. A blown fuse is usually caused by reverse polarity or a short circuit within the appliance or equipment being operated.

If the fuse does blow:

   1. Disconnect the appliance or equipment immediately.
   2. Find the source of the problem, and repair it.
   3. Install the new fuse (supplied with your power inverter.)

Please do not install a fuse higher than 25-amps, as this may damage the inverter. Make sure to correct the cause of the blown fuse before using the inverter again.

The low battery alarm is constantly on

1. The input voltage is below 11 volts. Recharge or replace battery to maintain adequate power input.
2. Poor or weak battery condition. Recharge or replace battery.
3. Inadequate power being delivered to the inverter or excessive voltage drop. Check the condition of your cigarette lighter socket. Clean or replace if necessary.

How To Connect your Inverter
Make sure the ON/OFF rocker switch is in the OFF (0) position. (If connecting in a vehicle, remove the cigarette lighter from its outlet.)  Push the 12-volt power plug firmly into the outlet.  Switch the inverter rocker switch to the ON (I) position. The LED indicator light should glow GREEN verifying the inverter is receiving power.  Turn the inverter rocker switch to the OFF (0) position. (The GREEN LED power indicator light may flash briefly and/or the internal speaker may make a brief "beep." This is normal).  Make sure that the appliance to be operated is turned OFF. Plug the appliance into one of the two AC outlets.  Turn the inverter rocker switch to the ON (I) position.  Turn the appliance on.

The LED Indicator briefly flashing when you first turn the inverter ON, is a sign if that there is a short circuit within the power supply.  Turn the inverter OFF.  Remove the 12-volt plug from the cigarette lighter socket.  Firmly re-insert the plug.  Turn the inverter ON again.  If this does not remedy the problem try using a different 12-volt power source.

Using the Inverter to Operate a TV or Audio Appliance
The inverter is shielded and filtered to minimize signal interference. Despite this, some interference may occur with your television picture, especially with weak signals. Below are some suggestions to try and improve reception.

Make sure the television antenna produces a clear signal under normal operating conditions (i.e., at home plugged into a standard 110 AC wall outlet). Also, ensure that the antenna cable is adequately shielded and of good quality.
Try altering the positions of the inverter, antenna cables, and television power cord.  Add an extension cord from the inverter to the TV so as to isolate its power cord and antenna cables from the 12-volt power source.
Try coiling the television power cord and the input cables running from the 12 -volt power source to the inverter.  Affix one or several "Ferrite Data Line Filters" to the television power cord. Ferrite Data Line Filters can be purchased at most electronic supply stores including Radio Shack - Part Number 273-105.  Try grounding the inverter with an 18 AWG (minimum) wire, using as short a length as possible.

Safety Features

The LED Indicator light will turn from GREEN to RED and the inverter will automatically turn itself off when:
   1.  The power input from the battery drops to approximately10 volts. (When the power input drops to
        approximately 10.5 volts, an alarm will sound for an extended period).
   2.  The power input from the battery exceeds 15 volts.
   3.  The continuous load demand from the equipment or appliance being operated exceeds the inverter’s power capability.
   4.  The case temperature exceeds 145 ºF.

Safety tips for all scooter, motorbike & cycle riders

Transportation is most essential part of our life. Everyone is connected with traveling. One needs to travel to work and back, to drop the children to school or even to pay social visits. For this reason, two wheelers like scooters and bikes come of use. Light and convenient, two wheelers zip around, without having to worry too much about space. But then certain safety tips are to be followed while riding two wheelers. This is because two wheeler riders are more susceptible to accidents than their four wheeler counterparts. The tips are as follows:

• Before starting driving, make a habit of pre-checking  your vehicle like loosening of clutch, brake, in gear or neutral, indicators, headlight (for night driving), mirrors, batteries etc. You never know when your two wheeler stops. Restarting the vehicle properly in such cases should be on top of your priority list.
• Always wear fully covered helmet. Safety comes first, come what may.
• Keep a watch on the speedometer. Avoid the speed that may lead to severe accident.
• Drive with a cool head. Dilemma fogs the mind.
• Before starting you should make a sketch of your route and destination in your mind.
• While driving, you should be much extra cautious about the stray animals over the road.
  It has been proved many times that dogs are the most dangerous animals for two wheeler accidents. So, in case of any dog at the road, reduce the speed of your vehicle to a speed of 20-30 kmph.
• While turning and road crossing, use your mirror but do not fully depend on mirror.
• Use your hand signals in advance before stopping, turning etc. This is because of the occasions your indicators give way when you need it the most. For cyclists this is THE only indicator available. So please provide proper hand signals.
• During night hours do not forgot to use indicators.
• Dim and dip should also be used while driving at night. All vehicles are fitted with high beam headlight and that may be one of the reasons for road accident.
• Reduce the speed of your vehicle to 30-40kmph during rainy days.
• Be extra cautious about speed breakers made on the road.
• Warning signals erected at the road ends may also be noticed.
• Being a driver, you should acquire some knowledge of driving psychology.
• Do not forget to take driving license and other driving related records.
• Do not adopt shortcut method to obtain license. This may prove fatal. So, honestly try to pass your driving test that will enhance your driving confidence.
• Do not panic in adverse situation.
• Always to try to control your vehicle to the utmost effort in case accident like situation.
• Avoid talking with pillion while driving.
• Avoid using mobile phones and listening to music though earphone while driving. If need be, park the vehicle at the side of the road, complete the call and carry on.
• Do not mix drinking and driving.
• Never forget to clear the side stand before moving your vehicle.

Tips on how to recognize if it is Occasion for any Fresh Automotive Battery pack

Batteries do not exhibit visible changes as part of usage; they look the same when fully charged or empty, new or old and in need of replacement. A car tire, in comparison, distorts when low on air, shows signs of wear, and indicates end-of-life when the treads are worn. Batteries should receive the same treatment as a critical aircraft part, a medical device and an industrial machine where wear and tear falls under strict maintenance guidelines. A battery behaves like a living organism that is swayed by conditions such as state-of-charge (SoC), charge and discharge events, rest periods and age. In addition, a battery with low SoC behaves similarly to a pack exhibiting capacity loss and these two symptoms become a blur.

The leading health indicator of a battery is capacity; a measurement that represents the actual energy storage. A new automotive battery delivers (should deliver) 100 percent of the rated capacity. Lead acid starts at about 85 percent and increases in capacity through use before the long and gradual decrease begins. Lithium-ion starts at peak and begins its decline immediately, albeit very slowly, while nickel-based batteries need priming to reach full capacity when new or after a long storage.

Manufacturers base device specifications on a new battery, but this is only a temporary state and does not represent a battery in real life situations. Performance will decrease with use and time, and the loss caused by battery handling will only become visible after the shine of a new device has worn off and daily routines are taken for granted. 

Few people know when to replace battery; some are replaced too early but most are kept too long. When asking battery users: “At what capacity do you replace the battery?” most would reply in confusion: “I beg your pardon?” Few are familiar with the term capacity as a measurement of run time, and even less as a threshold when to retire them. Performance loss only becomes apparent when breakdowns begin to occur and the battery becomes a nuisance.

Battery retirement depends on the application. Organizations using battery analyzers typically set the replacement threshold at 80 percent. There are applications where the battery can be kept longer and a toss arises between “what if” and economics. Some scanning devices in warehouses can go as low as 60 percent and still provide a full day’s work. A starter battery in a car still cranks well at 40 percent. Engine-starting only requires a short discharge that is replenished while driving, but letting the capacity go much lower may get the driver stranded without warning. No one gets hurt if a battery cuts off a phone call, but a failing medical device can put a patient at risk. Running out of power in an industrial application can also incur high logistic costs.

The best indicator for battery retirement is checking the spare capacity after a full shift.  A battery should have 10 to 20 percent spare at the end of a day to cover unknowns and emergencies. If the lowest performing battery in the fleet comes back with 30 percent, then the target capacity can safely be lowered from 80 percent to 70 percent. 

Battery manufacturers like SF Sonic provide car batteries online to prevent any inconvenience to the users. So once you understand that it’s time for a replacement, you just have to login for your online car battery.

Maintain Your Tractor Performance on top

Buried beneath the sheet metal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the tractor battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the automobile battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released at the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span.

Even though the tractor battery appears tough and rugged it is important not to wrestle and jostle it around. As an automobile battery ages, sediments from the charging and discharging cycle collect in the plastic grid at the bottom of the cells. Shaking or rough handling of an older tractor battery can loosen some of this material and cause it to lodge between the positive and negative plates. This can short out a cell and ruin the tractor battery. When viewing down the cell filler plugs a cloudy appearance of the acid solution can indicate a shorted cell.

As mentioned earlier, the amount of lead plates in each cell determines the amperage capacity of that cell. Therefore, a high amp tractor battery will have a larger number of lead plates in the cell than a lower capacity tractor battery. Sometimes, though, this extra number of plates has to be installed in a tractor battery case of the same size as a lower capacity. In order to do this the Company makes the thickness of the lead plates thinner so as to fit more plates in the same area. There is only so much capacity that can fit into a given space. That is why tractors or trucks with large engines that require large electrical capacity to start have two or more large batteries. The extra plates needed to create the necessary capacity and give adequate tractor battery life before the plates disintegrate from the chemical reaction require the added size. Take care in moving around the higher capacity batteries because the cell structure with added plates tends to make them a little more fragile.

Many tractor and truck batteries have the filler plugs or ports in them as previously mentioned. These ports have a dual purpose. When a tractor battery discharges and recharges the chemical reaction process produces hydrogen as a by-product. The filler caps provide venting for this highly explosive gas to the atmosphere. When working with automotive battery, always make sure any electrical load is turned off before removing the battery terminals. When charging an automobile battery, take care to unplug the charger when connecting or disconnecting the charging clips to the battery terminals. Even the smallest of sparks can ignite the escaping hydrogen and cause the battery to explode. While jump starting the tractor battery, instead of clipping the negative clamp to the battery terminal, clip it to a grounded bolt or engine component away from the tractor battery location. The corresponding spark from the charging vehicle will be controlled and isolated away from the tractor battery, thereby avoiding a potential explosion. The second use for the ports is so one can replenish the water supply in the tractor battery. Make sure and use only distilled water. Regular water from the tap can have impurities in it that will shorten the cell lifespan. Dissolved lime, for instance, can neutralize the Sulphuric Acid if used in sufficient quantities. Other impurities can coat the lead plates with a microscopic film and reduce the effectiveness of the electrical reaction. Make sure and not overfill the cell; fill it to the base of the plug hole, and try to fill the cells while they are in the charging mode.

Now that we have a basic understanding of the tractor battery lets discuss in further detail about its maintenance. An often neglected component of a tractor battery is its hold down straps. An unsecured tractor battery is an accident waiting to happen. The bouncing of a vehicle, especially a tractor over a plowed field, can cause a tractor battery to scoot around in its housing and possibly short out against another metal component causing a fire. If not that, it can certainly break a terminal, cable, or case. Purchase a tractor battery hold down kit and install it. It is cheap insurance against tractor damage and will increase the life span of the tractor battery. Another great investment is a tractor battery terminal remover tool. This cool tool looks like a small gear puller with clamps. After the terminal bolt is loosened, the puller makes removal of the terminal an easy job. Don’t screw a stuck terminal back and forth or use a screwdriver to try and pry it off. You can inadvertently crack the tractor battery case or break the seal between the case and the protruding terminal. A puller is cheap, easy to use, and does the job correctly. Once the terminal end is removed, inspect the mating ends for corrosion, pits or cracks. A tractor battery terminal cleaner works great for removing corrosion build up. This tool has two wire brush ends; one male, the other female. Use it to brush the ends until they shine. Sometimes a terminal end will have a hard blackish coating on it. This lead oxidation stops the electricity from flowing and creates excessive heat at the connection. It won’t always come off with the wire brush so you may have to use a small file. Make sure to rotate the file around the terminal as you go so you won’t create a lot of flat spots. Don’t remove too much material, and then tidy up the terminal with the brush. If the bolt is corroded, replace with a new one. Excessive corrosion on the cable terminal can be removed by submersing the end in a coffee can of water and baking soda solution for a while. Remove, dry and then wire brush the mating parts. Terminal ends that are pitted, cracked, or missing due to acid corrosion, should be replaced. It is best, in the long run, to replace the entire cable rather than merely an end. If the terminal end needs replacing, the chances are good that the reason for damage has made its way up the cable under the insulation where it can’t be seen. Examples could be unseen corrosion damage, copper strands that have been too hot from resistance and have burned themselves into the insulation, or have been heat damaged, or have internal strand breakage.

After removing the hold down strap and terminal ends, remove the tractor battery from the tractor and place on a plastic box or covering. Hose down the top of the tractor battery and brush off the accumulated debris. Take a towel and dry off the entire casing. Remove the filler ports and check the levels. Place on charger and fill accordingly. One way to test the integrity of the tractor battery is to check the specific gravity of each cell. A hydrometer, available at local auto stores, will measure the electrolyte acid content. It is best to read the directions that come with the tester thoroughly as variations due to temperature and states of charge can make the readings hard to interpret accurately. An easier method to determine tractor battery integrity is to do a load test. With the tractor battery installed in the vehicle, attach a voltmeter to the tractor battery terminals. Ground the coil to keep the engine from starting and crank the motor over for 15 seconds. If the tractor battery voltage stays above 9.6 volts, then the tractor battery is in a reasonable state of charge. Below that amount indicates a shorted cell or a lowered capacity due to the tractor battery reaching its useful life.

When reinstalling a used or new tractor battery, use a terminal conditioner on the cable and terminal ends. The conditioner comes in a spray can and goes on like a red paint. The coating retards tractor battery acid corrosion and lead oxidation and will lengthen the time between cleanings. One can also install felt pads onto the tractor battery posts which have been saturated with baking soda. These also tend to retard acid corrosion. The negative cable has the smaller end and goes to the corresponding terminal. Don’t drive the terminal ends onto the posts using a hammer. The jarring action may damage the internal connections of the tractor battery. Instead, use a terminal spreader. Don’t over tighten the terminal bolts as you can cause stress cracks on the ends. Reinstall the hold down brackets or straps making sure not to over tighten which can cause war page and/or breakage of the tractor battery case.

If a tractor battery is to be removed for the winter months, take a few moments to ensure that it will be in good condition when spring comes. Clean the casing and dry with a towel. Clean the terminal posts and check the electrolyte level. Place the tractor battery off of the floor, preferably on a wooden bench or shelf. Batteries left on concrete floors will lose their charge in a few short weeks. Place a trickle charger on the tractor battery to bring it up to charge. Some chargers have an automatic shut off switch that will shut the unit off when the tractor battery comes up to a full charge, and then turn it back on when the charge falls below a predetermined level. This type of charger can be left on all the time. Other chargers must be removed to prevent overcharging. When the tractor battery is fully charged store it in a cool, dry location out of the way of kicking feet or falling tools. A light coating of petroleum jelly on the posts will prevent any lead reaction to the elements. When spring comes the tractor battery should be ready to go back to work for your tractor.