Truck batteries are subjected to frequent failure because of deep discharge

The mechanism of a battery

A car battery is used to store electrical power in reserve to be used when the car engine is started. Several conditions can occur that will cause a battery to lose its charge overnight. There are several "live" electrical circuits that can draw electrical power from the battery when the key is in the off position. The thing that stocks energy to be used for future is called battery. The actual mechanism of a battery is the conversion of chemical energy into electricity by making use of a galvanic cell. At times the process can also involve the use of more than one galvanic cell. Batteries are the storing points of electric energy. With the alteration of the chemicals in the battery, electrical energy is radiated and stored but never produced. There is a continuous recurrence of the mentioned process in case of rechargeable batteries. However, a lead acid battery works with lead oxide as positive and pure lead as negative. Batteries are the raw source of power that sets your vehicle rolling on the roads. In case of a truck, choosing the right battery with strength and quality is what makes your vehicle run longer.  The performance level of a truck battery does not only depend on its consistency but also on a regular process of checking.

Battery Preservation

The need of maintaining a vehicle battery lies with its life expectancy. Regular checks of the battery by following some easy steps would surely make your truck battery run longer:

• The battery should be safely placed to the cradle as well as the connection between the cable clamps and lead wire should be rightly done.
• The battery should be kept clean and dry. No use of grease should be done. Use of petroleum jelly in the cable clamps and terminals will help keep them lubricated.
• Acid is barred. Distilled water could be used to maintain the level to the maximum.
• The vent plugs should always be tightly closed.
• Vent hose in the battery should never be damaged or crumpled by the exhaust system.
• Vehicle’s electrical system should be kept under regular checks. Examining the regulator voltage setting is also necessary.
• Frequent battery servicing from the nearest authorized dealer is important.

                           

As a battery ages it loses its ability to hold a charge, as a rule of thumb a battery will last about three to four years. If the battery is fairly new you will need to start the engine by jump starting or charging the battery using a battery charger. Once the engine is running test the alternator in the charging system. If the alternator fails, replace it with a new or rebuilt unit and re-test system, if the alternator tests ok proceed to the next step.

• This first test is simple but you would be surprised at how many people simply leave their headlights on overnight. If the battery is dead check the headlight control switch. If the switch is in the on position turn the switch off and jump start or charge the battery. The battery should re-gain its state of charge after about 15 minutes of driving and your problem will solved. If headlight switch is off proceed to next step.
  Inspect the glove box illumination light, in most cases this light is controlled by a small pin switch. If this switch malfunctions or is misaligned it will allow the glove box light to stay on draining the battery down overnight. To check for this condition look for the light inside the glove box through the small cracks in the glove box door. If this light is illuminated when the glove box door is shut replace or readjust the switch to operate properly and recheck light operation. If it tests ok proceed to next step. 
  
• Inspect the trunk illumination light, in most cases this light is controlled by a small pin or a mercury level switch. To test the trunk light operation observe the light as you close the trunk lid, the light should go off when the trunk lid is nearly shut. If the light doesn't go off replace or readjust the switch and recheck operation. If it tests ok proceed to next step.
  
  
• Inspect the hood (covers the engine) illumination light, in most cases this light is controlled by a small pin or a mercury level switch. To test the hood light operation observe the light as you close the hood, the light should go off when the hood is nearly shut. If the light doesn't go off replace or readjust the switch and recheck operation. If it tests ok proceed to next step.
• Debris can cause an electrical draw like a penny or a gum wrapper. Anything that can cause an electrical draw will drain the battery power. If debris is found remove it with a small pair of tweezers. (Note: sometimes when inserting tweezers or removing debris from the cigarette lighter a fuse can blow, if so replace the fuse with new after the debris has been removed) If the lighter is ok proceed to next step.
• Inspect the electric seat control switch, this switch can become sticky or weak allowing the switch to stay engaged forcing the seat motor to draw power from the battery until dead. To check for this condition observe the operation of the seat control switch if it does not return the neutral position or is sticking in one position replace the switch with new and recheck.
  
•  If no other electrical accessory is causing the battery to drain overnight a manual draw check of the electrical system will need to be performed. What this means is you will be checking the electrical draw the battery has on it when the car is locked up, with the key in the "off" position". First open the hood and disable the under hood illumination light, if equipped. Next, with the key off and the doors locked wait 15 minutes, then disconnect the battery cable on the negative side. (The 15 minute wait allows the computers to go into "sleep mode" and shuts down all electrical). Attach a test light between the negative battery cable end and the negative battery terminal. The test light should illuminate dimly or not at all. If the test light is on brightly there is a strong electrical draw in the system. To locate this electrical draw start removing fuses one at a time. When the test light goes out the circuit in question has been located. You will need a car repair manual to identify all accessories in a particular circuit, repair as needed and re-check system.

SF Sonic truck batteries

SF Sonic is a name suggestive of power.  SF Sonic gives us the best truck batteries in India that are outcomes of elaborate and detailed R&D and a tough quality control. The grid alloy technology used for making these batteries establishes symmetry between performance and durability. A SF Sonic two and four wheeler battery has been widely accepted for its resilience. SF Sonic’s Industrial Range of lead acid batteries is perfect to withstand the predicaments of Indian roads. The UPS, inverter and genset batteries of SF Sonic are sought after for their dependability. With SF Sonic, one can avail the advantage of buying auto batteries online. SF Sonic only does not let you get the right battery but also helps in its maintenance. This includes the responsibility of systematic checking of the battery as well as battery exchange and buying.

The Life Cycle and Functionality of Automotive Batteries

Lead-acid batteries are made up of plates of lead and separate plates of lead dioxide, which are submerged into an electrolyte solution of about 38% sulfuric acid and 62% water. This causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons, allowing them to flow through conductors to produce electricity. As the automotive battery discharges, the acid of the electrolyte reacts with the materials of the plates, changing their surface to lead sulfate. When the Automotive Battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed: the lead sulfate reforms into lead dioxide and lead. With the plates restored to their original condition, the process may now be repeated.

Normal Life of an Automotive Battery

When it comes to vehicle maintenance, "normal" is determined by a number of factors that exist in theory but rarely come to pass. For instance, an automotive battery has an average normal lifespan of four years under normal conditions. "Normal" in this case means that the automotive battery goes through full charge cycles, isn't subjected to extreme temperatures, is attached to a reliable and consistent charging system and isn't providing power for a ton of accessories. In the real world, temperature extremes, vibration, short trips down the street and an ever-increasing array of MP3 players, GPS receivers and other devices take a toll on the battery.

If you look at a typical lead-acid maintenance-free car battery, it's easy to make sense of why these factors affect normal automotive battery life. Inside the plastic box are plates of materials like lead and lead dioxide. The plates are suspended in a mix of water and sulfuric acid, which forms an electrolytic solution. This solution allows electrons to flow between the plates -- that flow of electrons is essentially electricity.

A host of factors can disturb this chemical reaction. Vibrations from rough travel or a poorly-secured battery can shake loose or damage the plates. Extreme heat speeds up the chemical reaction, shortening Battery life, while extreme cold can sometimes prolong automotive battery life by slowing down the reaction. This is why some batteries are covered by an insulating sleeve to keep extreme temperatures in check.

Driving style can affect the reaction, too. Starting the car takes a huge jolt of electricity, so the charging system has to step in to replenish the battery. If you have a short commute or take lots of brief trips, the automotive battery never gets fully charged. This constant state of undercharge results in acid stratification. Inside the battery, the electrolytic solution goes from homogenous -- or the same all the way through -- to a rough vertical split. The upper half of the solution is a light acid, while the bottom is a heavy acid. The light acid layer will begin to corrode the plates, and the heavy acid solution will start to compensate for the car's electrical needs by working harder than it's designed to work. The result is a shorter automotive battery life, even though the battery shows up as working on routine tests.

Signs of Automotive Battery Problems

The most obvious sign of an automotive battery problem is a dead battery. However, because the automotive battery is part of a larger system connected to other parts of the car, a dead battery may indicate a deeper problem than simply no juice. If something else is going wrong in the electrical system -- say, a weak alternator -- a working Automotive Battery may be providing less electricity than it should.

The best way to test an Automotive Battery is with the electronic tester’s available at most automotive shops, battery manufacturers and even a few auto parts stores. A tech will hook the tester to the battery in the car, and it will take a snapshot of your battery's condition and indicate whether it needs to be replaced. This check should be a part of routine vehicle maintenance and done every time you change oil.

The Automotive Battery itself provides other clues to whether it's on its way out. The first is age. If the battery is older than three or four years, start expecting problems. Second, take a look at your driving habits. Remember, short trips and long periods of inactivity will sap a battery's life. Third, take a look at the battery itself. Corrosion or stains mean you have a leak. If your automotive battery is covered in a case or insulating sleeve, remove it every once in a while to see what's going on underneath. Look for buildup around the terminals as well. You can clean the buildup off with baking soda and water -- just remember to use gloves and safety glasses while working. The electrolytic solution is partially sulfuric acid, which is not gentle on the skin. Finally, smell the battery, paying attention to rotten egg odors (sulfur) or the smell of the battery overheating.

Batteries are so reliable and so simple that drivers have a tendency to forget they're even there until it's too late. If you pay attention to your automotive battery and conduct a few tests and observations along the way, you'll reduce your risk of being stranded on the road. All things considered, batteries are relatively inexpensive, considering the amount of work they perform on a regular basis.

Battery monitoring and analysis for automotive system

The term ‘‘Battery Monitoring’’ is used in a wide range of meanings, from occasional manual readings of voltages, of electrolyte gravity SG and level, and visual cell inspection, through periodical tests of capacity or manual measurement of battery resistance, to fully automated on-line supervision in critical applications with means for real-time estimation of residue bridging time, or of battery wear and tear.

Here the term Battery Monitoring is used for supervision without manual engagement, which is state-of- the-art with many cycling batteries in automobiles like automatically guided vehicles (AGVs), forklift trucks, submarines, electrically driven cars and trucks, as well as with standby batteries in telecom and UPS applications. With consumer applications, any mobile phone, laptop or pocket computer, or even a wristwatch is equipped with a device providing some information with respect to energy being left.

The specific situation of the automotive battery becomes obvious, technically impeding Battery Monitoring in the automotive fields:

• They are scarcely ever been completely charged, i.e. ‘opportunity charge’ is standard.
• Recharge is performed with a wide range of different current rates.
• Discharge virtually never starts from a full SOC.
• Discharge is performed with a wide range of different current rates. Sometimes full discharge or (unfortunately) even over-discharge occurs.
• Operational temperature may even exceed the window from 30 to 70 degrees

While the term ‘‘Battery Monitoring’’ comprises

• Taking and/or receiving data from and/or about the battery
• Processing of this information, including predictions of performance, and
• Being or a unit, i.e. only passive surveillance and evaluation

The term ‘‘Battery Management’’ means active feedback to the battery. This may comprise control of current or voltage levels, control of recharge conditions, limiting of the operational windows with respect to SOC and/or temperature, battery temperature management, etc.

An appropriate Battery Management may enhance and improve, but is not a precondition for, a successful Energy Management. It is Energy Management, preferably including Battery Management, which, based on the information from Battery Monitoring, allows for a self-standing operation of a system without manual input—the comfort and the technical necessity requested for a vehicle at the beginning of the 21^st century.

Battery Monitoring allows for best use of the capability of a battery of given size, to guarantee power supply for high reliability devices, and for replacement strategies. Further-more, monitoring of the actual state-of-charge allows for an electrical power management which may include both reducing consumption of electrical power by limiting of operable luxury applications as well as increase of power generation by appropriate control of alternator or even idle speed and automatic gearbox control.

Battery Monitoring may be needed if

1. Energy has to be provided for a component which is essential for operation, e.g. an Electromechanical Power Steering (EPS) or an Electro-hydraulic Power Braking (EHB) system, an electrically powered suspension stabilization system, or an automatic gear shift;

2. An Electrical Energy Management (EEM) has to guarantee, e.g. for future cranking capability;

3. The cranking capability has to be supervised to operate a stop/start-system;

4. An indication of battery fatigue is needed for garage service to replace the battery.

Battery Monitoring consists of data acquisition, data processing, and some prediction of the future. For different technical goals, different information with respect to the future is needed. Any approach for Battery Monitoring may be classified according to the following criteria, which may be combined, too, e.g. data acquisition from both long-term and the nearest past, and prediction of both battery status and behavior.

A. Data Acquisition

1. Type of data: Battery status/battery behavior/operational conditions

2. Time scale of data acquisition: From long-term history/near past

3. Source of data: External battery parameters /internal battery parameters (e.g. electrolyte properties)/vehicle data (e.g. engine rpm, speed, and environmental temperature).

4. Data achieved from: Undisturbed battery behavior/ after electrical stimulation.

B. Data analysis

1. Analysis of operational history (i.e. conditions the battery had to suffer so far).

2. Analysis of previous performance (i.e. behavior the battery has shown so far).

3. Analysis of actual performance (i.e. recent and actual battery behavior and status).

C. Prediction of battery performance under a hypothetical future electrical load

1. Point in time for prediction: Near future (just now, with the present battery status)/medium future (in several hours or days, when the battery charge and temperature may have been changed).

2. Type of predicted battery data: Status (temperature, state-of-charge)/load behavior.

D. Determination of available electrical energy

This is a special case of C, with the standard capacity test scheme as the hypothetical (future) electrical load.

E. Determination of battery degradation (state-of-health (SOH) figure of merit).

While Battery Monitoring may provide information about the status of the battery, this knowledge is not a goal by itself. The final technical benefit has to be made clear, and a strategy and means to achieve this goal have to be worked out, to find out the relevant properties of the battery which have to be considered and evaluated.

Choose right inverter for home during power cuts

Power cuts are a very common feature is many parts of India. Glaring gap between supply and demand is increasing power cuts by every passing day. More and more people are looking for solutions to manage their homes during power cuts and power inverters are becoming popular. Although they are of great help during power cuts but if not chosen or installed or maintained properly, they can cause a significant hole in your electricity bills. The inefficiency can cause you to pay much more for the same amount of electricity during the power cuts. With this article we will try to help you understand the impact of an inverter on electricity bills and how to choose a right inverter.

What are inverters and how do they work

Inverters (as we know them) are a form of power backup which has 3 units: 1) A charger 2) A battery and 3) An inverter (as it is truly called). The charger is connected to the power supply and it charges the battery when the electricity is coming from the utility. Inverter, a device that converts Direct Current (DC) to Alternating Current (AC) gets activated when electricity from the utility goes off, and as the inverter is connected to the power point, it starts providing electricity to the house.

Efficiencies in Inverters

There are 2 cycles in inverters where efficiencies have to be considered:

1. Charging: During charging the efficiencies depend on the battery efficiency. A lead acid battery that is typically used in inverters is not 100% efficient. When the battery is half charged or less the efficiency may be over 90% that can drop to 60% when the battery is above 80% charged. It is very important to maintain the batteries regularly so that the efficiency levels remain good.

It is also important to choose the right kind of batteries so that the efficiencies are good. It is better to buy a branded battery as local made batteries do not have good efficiencies. Local made batteries may be cheap but the inefficiencies can cause a lot of expenses in electricity. There are 3 types of batteries available in the market:

1) Flat Plate Batteries

2) Tubular Batteries

3) Maintenance Free Batteries.

Of these 3 Flat Plate Batteries are cheapest, but the battery life is less and maintenance required is high. Maintenance Free batteries have medium life span but the maintenance is low and cost high. Tubular batteries have long life, medium maintenance and high cost.

Do not use car batteries for inverters, as they are not suited for the kind of requirements at home

Conversion from DC to AC by inverter: Efficiency of inverters vary from 90% when it is being used at peak load to just over 50% when very less power is used . Inverter draws power from batteries even when no power is being used. Thus the efficiencies are very low when low power is drawn from it. Thus it is very important to size the inverter properly. You should look at the load in your house before buying an inverter. Typical load of inverters is mentioned in VA (Volt-Ampere) which is roughly equal to Watts (W) (assuming power factor of appliances is 1). So to calculate load required, just sum up the wattage of appliances you want to run on inverter.

There are 2 types of inverters available in market: 1) Modified Sine Wave and 2) Pure Sine Wave inverters. Modified Sine Wave inverters are cheaper but less efficient. They can work with majority of low-end appliances but they produce a buzz sound. Electricity is wasted in form of heat through this kind of inverters. These are also not good for health of some sensitive electronic appliances. Pure Sine Wave inverters are expensive but the most efficient types of inverters. These types of inverters are necessary to run high-end appliances like audio systems and video game consoles. They produce the same kind of power as supplied by the utilities and thus are the best in terms of efficiency and usage.

An inverter can be very useful during power outages and can provide a lot of relief. But it can be a huge drain of electricity if right one is not chosen or is not maintained properly. Make sure that you keep operational costs (cost of using inverter) in mind before you buy a new one.