Tips on how to recognize if it is Occasion for any Fresh Automotive Battery pack

Batteries do not exhibit visible changes as part of usage; they look the same when fully charged or empty, new or old and in need of replacement. A car tire, in comparison, distorts when low on air, shows signs of wear, and indicates end-of-life when the treads are worn. Batteries should receive the same treatment as a critical aircraft part, a medical device and an industrial machine where wear and tear falls under strict maintenance guidelines. A battery behaves like a living organism that is swayed by conditions such as state-of-charge (SoC), charge and discharge events, rest periods and age. In addition, a battery with low SoC behaves similarly to a pack exhibiting capacity loss and these two symptoms become a blur.

The leading health indicator of a battery is capacity; a measurement that represents the actual energy storage. A new automotive battery delivers (should deliver) 100 percent of the rated capacity. Lead acid starts at about 85 percent and increases in capacity through use before the long and gradual decrease begins. Lithium-ion starts at peak and begins its decline immediately, albeit very slowly, while nickel-based batteries need priming to reach full capacity when new or after a long storage.

Manufacturers base device specifications on a new battery, but this is only a temporary state and does not represent a battery in real life situations. Performance will decrease with use and time, and the loss caused by battery handling will only become visible after the shine of a new device has worn off and daily routines are taken for granted. 

Few people know when to replace battery; some are replaced too early but most are kept too long. When asking battery users: “At what capacity do you replace the battery?” most would reply in confusion: “I beg your pardon?” Few are familiar with the term capacity as a measurement of run time, and even less as a threshold when to retire them. Performance loss only becomes apparent when breakdowns begin to occur and the battery becomes a nuisance.

Battery retirement depends on the application. Organizations using battery analyzers typically set the replacement threshold at 80 percent. There are applications where the battery can be kept longer and a toss arises between “what if” and economics. Some scanning devices in warehouses can go as low as 60 percent and still provide a full day’s work. A starter battery in a car still cranks well at 40 percent. Engine-starting only requires a short discharge that is replenished while driving, but letting the capacity go much lower may get the driver stranded without warning. No one gets hurt if a battery cuts off a phone call, but a failing medical device can put a patient at risk. Running out of power in an industrial application can also incur high logistic costs.

The best indicator for battery retirement is checking the spare capacity after a full shift.  A battery should have 10 to 20 percent spare at the end of a day to cover unknowns and emergencies. If the lowest performing battery in the fleet comes back with 30 percent, then the target capacity can safely be lowered from 80 percent to 70 percent. 

Battery manufacturers like SF Sonic provide car batteries online to prevent any inconvenience to the users. So once you understand that it’s time for a replacement, you just have to login for your online car battery.

Maintain Your Tractor Performance on top

Buried beneath the sheet metal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the tractor battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the automobile battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released at the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span.

Even though the tractor battery appears tough and rugged it is important not to wrestle and jostle it around. As an automobile battery ages, sediments from the charging and discharging cycle collect in the plastic grid at the bottom of the cells. Shaking or rough handling of an older tractor battery can loosen some of this material and cause it to lodge between the positive and negative plates. This can short out a cell and ruin the tractor battery. When viewing down the cell filler plugs a cloudy appearance of the acid solution can indicate a shorted cell.

As mentioned earlier, the amount of lead plates in each cell determines the amperage capacity of that cell. Therefore, a high amp tractor battery will have a larger number of lead plates in the cell than a lower capacity tractor battery. Sometimes, though, this extra number of plates has to be installed in a tractor battery case of the same size as a lower capacity. In order to do this the Company makes the thickness of the lead plates thinner so as to fit more plates in the same area. There is only so much capacity that can fit into a given space. That is why tractors or trucks with large engines that require large electrical capacity to start have two or more large batteries. The extra plates needed to create the necessary capacity and give adequate tractor battery life before the plates disintegrate from the chemical reaction require the added size. Take care in moving around the higher capacity batteries because the cell structure with added plates tends to make them a little more fragile.

Many tractor and truck batteries have the filler plugs or ports in them as previously mentioned. These ports have a dual purpose. When a tractor battery discharges and recharges the chemical reaction process produces hydrogen as a by-product. The filler caps provide venting for this highly explosive gas to the atmosphere. When working with automotive battery, always make sure any electrical load is turned off before removing the battery terminals. When charging an automobile battery, take care to unplug the charger when connecting or disconnecting the charging clips to the battery terminals. Even the smallest of sparks can ignite the escaping hydrogen and cause the battery to explode. While jump starting the tractor battery, instead of clipping the negative clamp to the battery terminal, clip it to a grounded bolt or engine component away from the tractor battery location. The corresponding spark from the charging vehicle will be controlled and isolated away from the tractor battery, thereby avoiding a potential explosion. The second use for the ports is so one can replenish the water supply in the tractor battery. Make sure and use only distilled water. Regular water from the tap can have impurities in it that will shorten the cell lifespan. Dissolved lime, for instance, can neutralize the Sulphuric Acid if used in sufficient quantities. Other impurities can coat the lead plates with a microscopic film and reduce the effectiveness of the electrical reaction. Make sure and not overfill the cell; fill it to the base of the plug hole, and try to fill the cells while they are in the charging mode.

Now that we have a basic understanding of the tractor battery lets discuss in further detail about its maintenance. An often neglected component of a tractor battery is its hold down straps. An unsecured tractor battery is an accident waiting to happen. The bouncing of a vehicle, especially a tractor over a plowed field, can cause a tractor battery to scoot around in its housing and possibly short out against another metal component causing a fire. If not that, it can certainly break a terminal, cable, or case. Purchase a tractor battery hold down kit and install it. It is cheap insurance against tractor damage and will increase the life span of the tractor battery. Another great investment is a tractor battery terminal remover tool. This cool tool looks like a small gear puller with clamps. After the terminal bolt is loosened, the puller makes removal of the terminal an easy job. Don’t screw a stuck terminal back and forth or use a screwdriver to try and pry it off. You can inadvertently crack the tractor battery case or break the seal between the case and the protruding terminal. A puller is cheap, easy to use, and does the job correctly. Once the terminal end is removed, inspect the mating ends for corrosion, pits or cracks. A tractor battery terminal cleaner works great for removing corrosion build up. This tool has two wire brush ends; one male, the other female. Use it to brush the ends until they shine. Sometimes a terminal end will have a hard blackish coating on it. This lead oxidation stops the electricity from flowing and creates excessive heat at the connection. It won’t always come off with the wire brush so you may have to use a small file. Make sure to rotate the file around the terminal as you go so you won’t create a lot of flat spots. Don’t remove too much material, and then tidy up the terminal with the brush. If the bolt is corroded, replace with a new one. Excessive corrosion on the cable terminal can be removed by submersing the end in a coffee can of water and baking soda solution for a while. Remove, dry and then wire brush the mating parts. Terminal ends that are pitted, cracked, or missing due to acid corrosion, should be replaced. It is best, in the long run, to replace the entire cable rather than merely an end. If the terminal end needs replacing, the chances are good that the reason for damage has made its way up the cable under the insulation where it can’t be seen. Examples could be unseen corrosion damage, copper strands that have been too hot from resistance and have burned themselves into the insulation, or have been heat damaged, or have internal strand breakage.

After removing the hold down strap and terminal ends, remove the tractor battery from the tractor and place on a plastic box or covering. Hose down the top of the tractor battery and brush off the accumulated debris. Take a towel and dry off the entire casing. Remove the filler ports and check the levels. Place on charger and fill accordingly. One way to test the integrity of the tractor battery is to check the specific gravity of each cell. A hydrometer, available at local auto stores, will measure the electrolyte acid content. It is best to read the directions that come with the tester thoroughly as variations due to temperature and states of charge can make the readings hard to interpret accurately. An easier method to determine tractor battery integrity is to do a load test. With the tractor battery installed in the vehicle, attach a voltmeter to the tractor battery terminals. Ground the coil to keep the engine from starting and crank the motor over for 15 seconds. If the tractor battery voltage stays above 9.6 volts, then the tractor battery is in a reasonable state of charge. Below that amount indicates a shorted cell or a lowered capacity due to the tractor battery reaching its useful life.

When reinstalling a used or new tractor battery, use a terminal conditioner on the cable and terminal ends. The conditioner comes in a spray can and goes on like a red paint. The coating retards tractor battery acid corrosion and lead oxidation and will lengthen the time between cleanings. One can also install felt pads onto the tractor battery posts which have been saturated with baking soda. These also tend to retard acid corrosion. The negative cable has the smaller end and goes to the corresponding terminal. Don’t drive the terminal ends onto the posts using a hammer. The jarring action may damage the internal connections of the tractor battery. Instead, use a terminal spreader. Don’t over tighten the terminal bolts as you can cause stress cracks on the ends. Reinstall the hold down brackets or straps making sure not to over tighten which can cause war page and/or breakage of the tractor battery case.

If a tractor battery is to be removed for the winter months, take a few moments to ensure that it will be in good condition when spring comes. Clean the casing and dry with a towel. Clean the terminal posts and check the electrolyte level. Place the tractor battery off of the floor, preferably on a wooden bench or shelf. Batteries left on concrete floors will lose their charge in a few short weeks. Place a trickle charger on the tractor battery to bring it up to charge. Some chargers have an automatic shut off switch that will shut the unit off when the tractor battery comes up to a full charge, and then turn it back on when the charge falls below a predetermined level. This type of charger can be left on all the time. Other chargers must be removed to prevent overcharging. When the tractor battery is fully charged store it in a cool, dry location out of the way of kicking feet or falling tools. A light coating of petroleum jelly on the posts will prevent any lead reaction to the elements. When spring comes the tractor battery should be ready to go back to work for your tractor.

The Life Cycle and Functionality of Automotive Batteries

Lead-acid batteries are made up of plates of lead and separate plates of lead dioxide, which are submerged into an electrolyte solution of about 38% sulfuric acid and 62% water. This causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons, allowing them to flow through conductors to produce electricity. As the automotive battery discharges, the acid of the electrolyte reacts with the materials of the plates, changing their surface to lead sulfate. When the Automotive Battery is recharged, the chemical reaction is reversed: the lead sulfate reforms into lead dioxide and lead. With the plates restored to their original condition, the process may now be repeated.

Normal Life of an Automotive Battery

When it comes to vehicle maintenance, "normal" is determined by a number of factors that exist in theory but rarely come to pass. For instance, an automotive battery has an average normal lifespan of four years under normal conditions. "Normal" in this case means that the automotive battery goes through full charge cycles, isn't subjected to extreme temperatures, is attached to a reliable and consistent charging system and isn't providing power for a ton of accessories. In the real world, temperature extremes, vibration, short trips down the street and an ever-increasing array of MP3 players, GPS receivers and other devices take a toll on the battery.

If you look at a typical lead-acid maintenance-free car battery, it's easy to make sense of why these factors affect normal automotive battery life. Inside the plastic box are plates of materials like lead and lead dioxide. The plates are suspended in a mix of water and sulfuric acid, which forms an electrolytic solution. This solution allows electrons to flow between the plates -- that flow of electrons is essentially electricity.

A host of factors can disturb this chemical reaction. Vibrations from rough travel or a poorly-secured battery can shake loose or damage the plates. Extreme heat speeds up the chemical reaction, shortening Battery life, while extreme cold can sometimes prolong automotive battery life by slowing down the reaction. This is why some batteries are covered by an insulating sleeve to keep extreme temperatures in check.

Driving style can affect the reaction, too. Starting the car takes a huge jolt of electricity, so the charging system has to step in to replenish the battery. If you have a short commute or take lots of brief trips, the automotive battery never gets fully charged. This constant state of undercharge results in acid stratification. Inside the battery, the electrolytic solution goes from homogenous -- or the same all the way through -- to a rough vertical split. The upper half of the solution is a light acid, while the bottom is a heavy acid. The light acid layer will begin to corrode the plates, and the heavy acid solution will start to compensate for the car's electrical needs by working harder than it's designed to work. The result is a shorter automotive battery life, even though the battery shows up as working on routine tests.

Signs of Automotive Battery Problems

The most obvious sign of an automotive battery problem is a dead battery. However, because the automotive battery is part of a larger system connected to other parts of the car, a dead battery may indicate a deeper problem than simply no juice. If something else is going wrong in the electrical system -- say, a weak alternator -- a working Automotive Battery may be providing less electricity than it should.

The best way to test an Automotive Battery is with the electronic tester’s available at most automotive shops, battery manufacturers and even a few auto parts stores. A tech will hook the tester to the battery in the car, and it will take a snapshot of your battery's condition and indicate whether it needs to be replaced. This check should be a part of routine vehicle maintenance and done every time you change oil.

The Automotive Battery itself provides other clues to whether it's on its way out. The first is age. If the battery is older than three or four years, start expecting problems. Second, take a look at your driving habits. Remember, short trips and long periods of inactivity will sap a battery's life. Third, take a look at the battery itself. Corrosion or stains mean you have a leak. If your automotive battery is covered in a case or insulating sleeve, remove it every once in a while to see what's going on underneath. Look for buildup around the terminals as well. You can clean the buildup off with baking soda and water -- just remember to use gloves and safety glasses while working. The electrolytic solution is partially sulfuric acid, which is not gentle on the skin. Finally, smell the battery, paying attention to rotten egg odors (sulfur) or the smell of the battery overheating.

Batteries are so reliable and so simple that drivers have a tendency to forget they're even there until it's too late. If you pay attention to your automotive battery and conduct a few tests and observations along the way, you'll reduce your risk of being stranded on the road. All things considered, batteries are relatively inexpensive, considering the amount of work they perform on a regular basis.

Battery monitoring and analysis for automotive system

The term ‘‘Battery Monitoring’’ is used in a wide range of meanings, from occasional manual readings of voltages, of electrolyte gravity SG and level, and visual cell inspection, through periodical tests of capacity or manual measurement of battery resistance, to fully automated on-line supervision in critical applications with means for real-time estimation of residue bridging time, or of battery wear and tear.

Here the term Battery Monitoring is used for supervision without manual engagement, which is state-of- the-art with many cycling batteries in automobiles like automatically guided vehicles (AGVs), forklift trucks, submarines, electrically driven cars and trucks, as well as with standby batteries in telecom and UPS applications. With consumer applications, any mobile phone, laptop or pocket computer, or even a wristwatch is equipped with a device providing some information with respect to energy being left.

The specific situation of the automotive battery becomes obvious, technically impeding Battery Monitoring in the automotive fields:

• They are scarcely ever been completely charged, i.e. ‘opportunity charge’ is standard.
• Recharge is performed with a wide range of different current rates.
• Discharge virtually never starts from a full SOC.
• Discharge is performed with a wide range of different current rates. Sometimes full discharge or (unfortunately) even over-discharge occurs.
• Operational temperature may even exceed the window from 30 to 70 degrees

While the term ‘‘Battery Monitoring’’ comprises

• Taking and/or receiving data from and/or about the battery
• Processing of this information, including predictions of performance, and
• Being or a unit, i.e. only passive surveillance and evaluation

The term ‘‘Battery Management’’ means active feedback to the battery. This may comprise control of current or voltage levels, control of recharge conditions, limiting of the operational windows with respect to SOC and/or temperature, battery temperature management, etc.

An appropriate Battery Management may enhance and improve, but is not a precondition for, a successful Energy Management. It is Energy Management, preferably including Battery Management, which, based on the information from Battery Monitoring, allows for a self-standing operation of a system without manual input—the comfort and the technical necessity requested for a vehicle at the beginning of the 21^st century.

Battery Monitoring allows for best use of the capability of a battery of given size, to guarantee power supply for high reliability devices, and for replacement strategies. Further-more, monitoring of the actual state-of-charge allows for an electrical power management which may include both reducing consumption of electrical power by limiting of operable luxury applications as well as increase of power generation by appropriate control of alternator or even idle speed and automatic gearbox control.

Battery Monitoring may be needed if

1. Energy has to be provided for a component which is essential for operation, e.g. an Electromechanical Power Steering (EPS) or an Electro-hydraulic Power Braking (EHB) system, an electrically powered suspension stabilization system, or an automatic gear shift;

2. An Electrical Energy Management (EEM) has to guarantee, e.g. for future cranking capability;

3. The cranking capability has to be supervised to operate a stop/start-system;

4. An indication of battery fatigue is needed for garage service to replace the battery.

Battery Monitoring consists of data acquisition, data processing, and some prediction of the future. For different technical goals, different information with respect to the future is needed. Any approach for Battery Monitoring may be classified according to the following criteria, which may be combined, too, e.g. data acquisition from both long-term and the nearest past, and prediction of both battery status and behavior.

A. Data Acquisition

1. Type of data: Battery status/battery behavior/operational conditions

2. Time scale of data acquisition: From long-term history/near past

3. Source of data: External battery parameters /internal battery parameters (e.g. electrolyte properties)/vehicle data (e.g. engine rpm, speed, and environmental temperature).

4. Data achieved from: Undisturbed battery behavior/ after electrical stimulation.

B. Data analysis

1. Analysis of operational history (i.e. conditions the battery had to suffer so far).

2. Analysis of previous performance (i.e. behavior the battery has shown so far).

3. Analysis of actual performance (i.e. recent and actual battery behavior and status).

C. Prediction of battery performance under a hypothetical future electrical load

1. Point in time for prediction: Near future (just now, with the present battery status)/medium future (in several hours or days, when the battery charge and temperature may have been changed).

2. Type of predicted battery data: Status (temperature, state-of-charge)/load behavior.

D. Determination of available electrical energy

This is a special case of C, with the standard capacity test scheme as the hypothetical (future) electrical load.

E. Determination of battery degradation (state-of-health (SOH) figure of merit).

While Battery Monitoring may provide information about the status of the battery, this knowledge is not a goal by itself. The final technical benefit has to be made clear, and a strategy and means to achieve this goal have to be worked out, to find out the relevant properties of the battery which have to be considered and evaluated.