Buried beneath the sheet metal, under the gas tank, or
stuffed in front of the radiator is the tractor battery. This elusive and
neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and
in need of a jump. But usually, the automobile battery is a storehouse of
electrical energy waiting to be released at the flick of a switch. A few
maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of
its life span.
Even though the tractor battery appears tough and rugged it
is important not to wrestle and jostle it around. As an automobile battery ages,
sediments from the charging and discharging cycle collect in the plastic grid
at the bottom of the cells. Shaking or rough handling of an older tractor
battery can loosen some of this material and cause it to lodge between the
positive and negative plates. This can short out a cell and ruin the tractor
battery. When viewing down the cell filler plugs a cloudy appearance of the
acid solution can indicate a shorted cell.
As mentioned earlier, the amount of lead plates in each cell
determines the amperage capacity of that cell. Therefore, a high amp tractor
battery will have a larger number of lead plates in the cell than a lower
capacity tractor battery. Sometimes, though, this extra number of plates has to
be installed in a tractor battery case of the same size as a lower capacity. In
order to do this the Company makes the thickness of the lead plates thinner so
as to fit more plates in the same area. There is only so much capacity that can
fit into a given space. That is why tractors or trucks with large engines that
require large electrical capacity to start have two or more large batteries.
The extra plates needed to create the necessary capacity and give adequate tractor
battery life before the plates disintegrate from the chemical reaction require
the added size. Take care in moving around the higher capacity batteries
because the cell structure with added plates tends to make them a little more
fragile.
Many tractor and truck batteries have the filler plugs or
ports in them as previously mentioned. These ports have a dual purpose. When a tractor
battery discharges and recharges the chemical reaction process produces
hydrogen as a by-product. The filler caps provide venting for this highly
explosive gas to the atmosphere. When working with automotive battery, always
make sure any electrical load is turned off before removing the battery
terminals. When charging an automobile battery, take care to unplug the charger
when connecting or disconnecting the charging clips to the battery terminals.
Even the smallest of sparks can ignite the escaping hydrogen and cause the
battery to explode. While jump starting the tractor battery, instead of
clipping the negative clamp to the battery terminal, clip it to a grounded bolt
or engine component away from the tractor battery location. The corresponding
spark from the charging vehicle will be controlled and isolated away from the tractor
battery, thereby avoiding a potential explosion. The second use for the ports
is so one can replenish the water supply in the tractor battery. Make sure and
use only distilled water. Regular water from the tap can have impurities in it
that will shorten the cell lifespan. Dissolved lime, for instance, can
neutralize the Sulphuric Acid if used in sufficient quantities. Other
impurities can coat the lead plates with a microscopic film and reduce the
effectiveness of the electrical reaction. Make sure and not overfill the cell;
fill it to the base of the plug hole, and try to fill the cells while they are
in the charging mode.
Now that we have a basic understanding of the tractor
battery lets discuss in further detail about its maintenance. An often
neglected component of a tractor battery is its hold down straps. An unsecured tractor
battery is an accident waiting to happen. The bouncing of a vehicle, especially
a tractor over a plowed field, can cause a tractor battery to scoot around in
its housing and possibly short out against another metal component causing a
fire. If not that, it can certainly break a terminal, cable, or case. Purchase
a tractor battery hold down kit and install it. It is cheap insurance against
tractor damage and will increase the life span of the tractor battery. Another
great investment is a tractor battery terminal remover tool. This cool tool
looks like a small gear puller with clamps. After the terminal bolt is
loosened, the puller makes removal of the terminal an easy job. Don’t screw a
stuck terminal back and forth or use a screwdriver to try and pry it off. You
can inadvertently crack the tractor battery case or break the seal between the
case and the protruding terminal. A puller is cheap, easy to use, and does the
job correctly. Once the terminal end is removed, inspect the mating ends for
corrosion, pits or cracks. A tractor battery terminal cleaner works great for removing
corrosion build up. This tool has two wire brush ends; one male, the other
female. Use it to brush the ends until they shine. Sometimes a terminal end
will have a hard blackish coating on it. This lead oxidation stops the
electricity from flowing and creates excessive heat at the connection. It won’t
always come off with the wire brush so you may have to use a small file. Make
sure to rotate the file around the terminal as you go so you won’t create a lot
of flat spots. Don’t remove too much material, and then tidy up the terminal
with the brush. If the bolt is corroded, replace with a new one. Excessive
corrosion on the cable terminal can be removed by submersing the end in a
coffee can of water and baking soda solution for a while. Remove, dry and then
wire brush the mating parts. Terminal ends that are pitted, cracked, or missing
due to acid corrosion, should be replaced. It is best, in the long run, to
replace the entire cable rather than merely an end. If the terminal end needs
replacing, the chances are good that the reason for damage has made its way up
the cable under the insulation where it can’t be seen. Examples could be unseen
corrosion damage, copper strands that have been too hot from resistance and
have burned themselves into the insulation, or have been heat damaged, or have
internal strand breakage.
After removing the hold down strap and terminal ends, remove
the tractor battery from the tractor and place on a plastic box or covering.
Hose down the top of the tractor battery and brush off the accumulated debris.
Take a towel and dry off the entire casing. Remove the filler ports and check
the levels. Place on charger and fill accordingly. One way to test the
integrity of the tractor battery is to check the specific gravity of each cell.
A hydrometer, available at local auto stores, will measure the electrolyte acid
content. It is best to read the directions that come with the tester thoroughly
as variations due to temperature and states of charge can make the readings
hard to interpret accurately. An easier method to determine tractor battery
integrity is to do a load test. With the tractor battery installed in the
vehicle, attach a voltmeter to the tractor battery terminals. Ground the coil
to keep the engine from starting and crank the motor over for 15 seconds. If
the tractor battery voltage stays above 9.6 volts, then the tractor battery is
in a reasonable state of charge. Below that amount indicates a shorted cell or
a lowered capacity due to the tractor battery reaching its useful life.
When reinstalling a used or new tractor battery, use a
terminal conditioner on the cable and terminal ends. The conditioner comes in a
spray can and goes on like a red paint. The coating retards tractor battery
acid corrosion and lead oxidation and will lengthen the time between cleanings.
One can also install felt pads onto the tractor battery posts which have been
saturated with baking soda. These also tend to retard acid corrosion. The
negative cable has the smaller end and goes to the corresponding terminal.
Don’t drive the terminal ends onto the posts using a hammer. The jarring action
may damage the internal connections of the tractor battery. Instead, use a
terminal spreader. Don’t over tighten the terminal bolts as you can cause
stress cracks on the ends. Reinstall the hold down brackets or straps making
sure not to over tighten which can cause war page and/or breakage of the tractor
battery case.
If a tractor battery is to be removed for the winter months,
take a few moments to ensure that it will be in good condition when spring
comes. Clean the casing and dry with a towel. Clean the terminal posts and
check the electrolyte level. Place the tractor battery off of the floor,
preferably on a wooden bench or shelf. Batteries left on concrete floors will
lose their charge in a few short weeks. Place a trickle charger on the tractor
battery to bring it up to charge. Some chargers have an automatic shut off
switch that will shut the unit off when the tractor battery comes up to a full
charge, and then turn it back on when the charge falls below a predetermined
level. This type of charger can be left on all the time. Other chargers must be
removed to prevent overcharging. When the tractor battery is fully charged
store it in a cool, dry location out of the way of kicking feet or falling
tools. A light coating of petroleum jelly on the posts will prevent any lead
reaction to the elements. When spring comes the tractor battery should be ready
to go back to work for your tractor.
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